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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 12:06 pm 
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Still on the Trailer Member

Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 11:44 am
Posts: 1
Hi guys,

I am having the same problem as Jade so I though I would chime in here rather than start a new thread... hopefully, it will help both me and Jade.

Here is the story:
I also have a 2001 Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 and it doesn't want to "rev". It will start and idle but as soon as I give it gas past ~1/3rd throttle, it bogs down. It ran well when I used it last (approx. 6 months ago). When I went to start it to get it ready for plowing it wouldn't start at all. I have since gotten it to start and idle but I can't get it to run properly.

Here is what I have tried so far...

1. Flushed out the gas tank (twice) and replaced the old fuel with new 91 octane.

2. Replaced recent fuel filter with a new fuel filter.

3. Replaced a cracked plastic fitting that holds the starter cable/starter plunger to the carb. (that got it to start)

4. Cleaned out the carb with carb cleaner including cleaning the pilot jet, main jet, starter jet and needle jet, cleaned the jet needle. No visible obstructions.

5. Cleaned the petcock valve and blew it out with a compressor.

6. I tried blowing out the K&N air filter, it is still a little dirty but the ATV seems to act the same whether the filter is on or off so I don't think that is it.

7. New Spark plug, properly gapped.

8. I added a small amount of carb/fuel injector cleaner to the gas... as I suspected, it didn't help.

9. I pulled out the spark arrestor in the muffler to confirm that there were no little critters nesting in there... there weren't.

10. I sprayed carb cleaner into the flange that the K&N air filter mounts to while the engine was running... it didn't help.

11. If I hold my hand over the air intake blocking it about 80-90%, it will rev... somehow I must be getting too much air into the system? What could that be?

The carb doesn't seem to have any external adjustment screws other than the throttle stop screw (to adjust the base idle at the throttle cable).

There is a weird metallic sound in the muffler... could I have blown something? Would it run at all if I did?

I bought the shop manual on a CD but I have to say, it is pretty lame. I have tried to go through the troubleshooting and carb sections but it hasn't been much help.

I haven't put new needles/jets in it yet, before I just start buying new parts I thought I would ask you guys what you think.

I was (barely) able to plow my driveway with it this morning so it ran for about 45 minutes and the problem remains (it isn't much fun plowing with less than 1/2 throttle).

Here is a video... hopefully it will help!

Image

Thanks in advance!!

-Jon A.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 1:02 pm 
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ATV Junkie

Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:05 pm
Posts: 755
Location: Farmington, New Mexico
I had a similar problem with a Kawasaki dual-sport motorcycle, where the fuel had gone bad.

The problem was (discovered while cleaning the carb the 4th time) that even though I could see light through the hole in the main jet where the slide needle sticks into, there was just enough buildup along the sides of the main jet hole that there was still a little resistance that kept the slide needle from lifting like it should when throttle was applied.

It sounds like you have the same problem, and when you stuck your hand over the carb intake, that created enough vacuum to overcome the resistance, which allowed the slide and needle to lift. Otherwise, there would normally not be enough vacuum to cause the slide to lift, if there's resistance.

You should remove the main jet again and take a stiff wire (I used an oxy/acetylene torch tip cleaning tool) and try to scrape the sides of the main jet passage. It would also help to use spray carb cleaner. Take the spray nozzle straw and put it against the passage and spray. This will help force out any leftover buildup.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 4:27 pm 
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Trail Riding Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 2:13 pm
Posts: 55
Location: Wakefield, Michigan
Jon A. wrote:
Hi guys,

I am having the same problem as Jade so I though I would chime in here rather than start a new thread... hopefully, it will help both me and Jade.

Here is the story:
I also have a 2001 Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 and it doesn't want to "rev". It will start and idle but as soon as I give it gas past ~1/3rd throttle, it bogs down. It ran well when I used it last (approx. 6 months ago). When I went to start it to get it ready for plowing it wouldn't start at all. I have since gotten it to start and idle but I can't get it to run properly.

Here is what I have tried so far...

1. Flushed out the gas tank (twice) and replaced the old fuel with new 91 octane.

2. Replaced recent fuel filter with a new fuel filter.

3. Replaced a cracked plastic fitting that holds the starter cable/starter plunger to the carb. (that got it to start)

4. Cleaned out the carb with carb cleaner including cleaning the pilot jet, main jet, starter jet and needle jet, cleaned the jet needle. No visible obstructions.

5. Cleaned the petcock valve and blew it out with a compressor.

6. I tried blowing out the K&N air filter, it is still a little dirty but the ATV seems to act the same whether the filter is on or off so I don't think that is it.

7. New Spark plug, properly gapped.

8. I added a small amount of carb/fuel injector cleaner to the gas... as I suspected, it didn't help.

9. I pulled out the spark arrestor in the muffler to confirm that there were no little critters nesting in there... there weren't.

10. I sprayed carb cleaner into the flange that the K&N air filter mounts to while the engine was running... it didn't help.

11. If I hold my hand over the air intake blocking it about 80-90%, it will rev... somehow I must be getting too much air into the system? What could that be?

The carb doesn't seem to have any external adjustment screws other than the throttle stop screw (to adjust the base idle at the throttle cable).

There is a weird metallic sound in the muffler... could I have blown something? Would it run at all if I did?

I bought the shop manual on a CD but I have to say, it is pretty lame. I have tried to go through the troubleshooting and carb sections but it hasn't been much help.

I haven't put new needles/jets in it yet, before I just start buying new parts I thought I would ask you guys what you think.

I was (barely) able to plow my driveway with it this morning so it ran for about 45 minutes and the problem remains (it isn't much fun plowing with less than 1/2 throttle).

Here is a video... hopefully it will help!

Image

Thanks in advance!!

-Jon A.



Wow. I am having the SAME EXACT problem.

Weird.

When running, spray some carburetor cleaner into the carburetor and see if it helps you. It did me, but it only worked while I was actually spraying it. For those few seconds, it went to full rev.

Nice machine, mine's a poo-shade of brown. I see you have the nice Hunter Green.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 11:26 am 
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ATV Junkie

Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:05 pm
Posts: 755
Location: Farmington, New Mexico
Jade wrote:

When running, spray some carburetor cleaner into the carburetor and see if it helps you. It did me, but it only worked while I was actually spraying it. For those few seconds, it went to full rev.

No, it didn't help you. You still have the same problem as before. Most likely he will too.

The only way spraying carb cleaner into the intake while running helped is that it helped verify that the engine is running lean. You still have either a fuel jet, fuel passage etc. blocked, a dirty slide or slide needle, or possibly a vacuum leak. All of these will cause an engine to run lean.

On very rare occasions, spray carb cleaner can help without disassembling the carb. On even rarer occasions, fuel additive can help. But these are very rare exceptions. Almost every time, you have to partially or totally disassemble the carb to clean every fuel passage.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:28 pm 
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Trail Riding Member

Joined: Fri Jun 09, 2006 5:23 pm
Posts: 55
Location: Ada MI
Last winter I had a similar problem, but almost the opposite. I was in the woods in the snow and was clearing the paths and all of a sudden, I let off the throttle to back up and it revved up real high. The main problem was that I was going to hit a pop up and the thing was trying its darndest to go forward. I was holding all three of the brakes and it was still inching. I managed to turn the thing off and get it in neutral. But when I started it back up, It immediately did the same thing except I didn't have to try and hold the brakes, So I just fiddled around with the controls. The rpms were getting progressively louder and if I hit the throttle, they would still jump up until I was scared something was going to break, so I shut it off. I managed to tow the macine into the garage and continued to play around with the choke cable and such. I called my dealer, who unfortunately didn't know anything and is a Jacka$$. I waited a couple of days until I felt brave enough to start it again. No problem. I haven't had the problem since and I am thinking that a chunk of ice got stuck in the choke flap somehow and the rest is still a mystery.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:21 pm 
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Trail Riding Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 2:13 pm
Posts: 55
Location: Wakefield, Michigan
Ymha600 wrote:
Last winter I had a similar problem, but almost the opposite. I was in the woods in the snow and was clearing the paths and all of a sudden, I let off the throttle to back up and it revved up real high. The main problem was that I was going to hit a pop up and the thing was trying its darndest to go forward. I was holding all three of the brakes and it was still inching. I managed to turn the thing off and get it in neutral. But when I started it back up, It immediately did the same thing except I didn't have to try and hold the brakes, So I just fiddled around with the controls. The rpms were getting progressively louder and if I hit the throttle, they would still jump up until I was scared something was going to break, so I shut it off. I managed to tow the macine into the garage and continued to play around with the choke cable and such. I called my dealer, who unfortunately didn't know anything and is a Jacka$$. I waited a couple of days until I felt brave enough to start it again. No problem. I haven't had the problem since and I am thinking that a chunk of ice got stuck in the choke flap somehow and the rest is still a mystery.


Your V-belt was slipping. It happens on mine all the time. Usually, the most you can do is let it dry by not riding it for a few days, or take the housing (and it's hard as heck to get it off) off and let it dry that way. You'll find that'll happen when you go through water.

That's exactly what I mean by my sig. Whenever I go through more than 4 inches of water, the belt slips.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:48 pm 
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ATV Junkie

Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:05 pm
Posts: 755
Location: Farmington, New Mexico
Jade wrote:
Your V-belt was slipping.

Whenever I go through more than 4 inches of water, the belt slips.


It doesn't sound like his belt was slipping, and here's why: "The main problem was that I was going to hit a pop up and the thing was trying its darndest to go forward. I was holding all three of the brakes and it was still inching".

If the belt was slipping, it wouldn't be inching forward with the brakes applied. In fact, it would have trouble moving at all, even with no brakes applied.

By the way, 4 inches of water shouldn't even be deep enough to reach the belt in your ATV, and wouldn't even be enough to touch the floorboards. Even my Wolverine, with less clearance and smaller tires, can go through 4 inches of water without the water being above the floorboards.

I've been in water up to just below the seat with no water intrusion whatsoever into the belt compartment (the belt compartment was totally submerged). Mine has the same basic drivetrain as yours, so my guess is that yours isn't sealed as well now as it was from the factory. Maybe a gasket or seal was damaged or has shrunk, maybe the belt housing cover was removed and not reinstalled properly, or maybe there's a crack in the cover. Or maybe the housing water drain plug is missing, damaged, or not tight enough.

It doesn't sound like it's the fault of the design of the ATV. It sounds like a simple problem that needs fixed.

Wherever the water is entering, I would find out where the water is entering and seal it. It shouldn't be hard to do. Your ATV should definately be capable of fording water.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 4:33 pm 
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Trail Riding Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 2:13 pm
Posts: 55
Location: Wakefield, Michigan
William wrote:
Jade wrote:
Your V-belt was slipping.

Whenever I go through more than 4 inches of water, the belt slips.


It doesn't sound like his belt was slipping, and here's why: "The main problem was that I was going to hit a pop up and the thing was trying its darndest to go forward. I was holding all three of the brakes and it was still inching".

If the belt was slipping, it wouldn't be inching forward with the brakes applied. In fact, it would have trouble moving at all, even with no brakes applied.

By the way, 4 inches of water shouldn't even be deep enough to reach the belt in your ATV, and wouldn't even be enough to touch the floorboards. Even my Wolverine, with less clearance and smaller tires, can go through 4 inches of water without the water being above the floorboards.

I've been in water up to just below the seat with no water intrusion whatsoever into the belt compartment (the belt compartment was totally submerged). Mine has the same basic drivetrain as yours, so my guess is that yours isn't sealed as well now as it was from the factory. Maybe a gasket or seal was damaged or has shrunk, maybe the belt housing cover was removed and not reinstalled properly, or maybe there's a crack in the cover. Or maybe the housing water drain plug is missing, damaged, or not tight enough.

It doesn't sound like it's the fault of the design of the ATV. It sounds like a simple problem that needs fixed.

Wherever the water is entering, I would find out where the water is entering and seal it. It shouldn't be hard to do. Your ATV should definately be capable of fording water.


Well that's an exaggeration. Whenever the water I cross goes over the housing, the belts starts slipping. I still say that the belt slipping is a likely problem for him. The same thing happens to me.

If all of the brakes were held in, the machine could still have enough power to inch it forward.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 5:49 pm 
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Trail Riding Member

Joined: Fri Jun 09, 2006 5:23 pm
Posts: 55
Location: Ada MI
The belt slipping doesn't really sound like a likely diagnosis for my machine. The entire machine is shaft driven and has V-belt assist only for the 4wd. I was in 4wd at the time, I don't know much about the belt and I am unable to find it. I have the workshop manual and nothing shows where the belt is besides the label saying V-belt houseing, I take off the front houseing and hit a wall. The belt could be bad, I just don't know and I doubt it has ever been checked.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:54 pm 
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ATV Junkie

Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:05 pm
Posts: 755
Location: Farmington, New Mexico
The belt is after the engine and before the rest of the drivetrain, including both front and rear driveshafts. The belt, along with the variable width pulleys is what varies the ratio. It's a variable ratio transmission, and varies the ratio whether in 2wd or 4wd. The drive shafts simply transmit power from the transmission to the front (while in 4wd) and rear (while in any gear) ring gears, which then transmit power to each individual wheel.

Jade, he never said anything about being in water, and snow isn't going to somehow melt fast enugh to find it's way into the housing, certainly not enough to fill the housing up to the level of the belt itself faster than it could drain back out of where it went in.

He did say it revved up, however, as if the throttle stuck somehow. That sounds like what happened, and the belt slipping wouldn't cause it to rev up and creep forward against full braking force.

His problem is different from yours, and like I said, your problem should be an easy fix.


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